Adjustable chart.



N'o. 688,300. Patented Der). I0, |90l. T. J.' GDUDWIN.

ADJUSTABLE CHART. l (App'lcetion led June 11, 1900.)

(lo Model.)

MWJNS..

tern for drafting shirt-waists or similar gar- UNITED STATES PATENT OIE-FICE.

TERENCE J; GOODWIN, OF SYRACUSE, NEW YORK.v

ADJUSTABLE CHART. v

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 688,300, dated December 10, 1901. Application filed June 11, 1900. Serial No. 19,768. (Nomodel.)

To ,all wir/0112, it may concern:

Be it known that I, TERENCE J. GOODWIN, of Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga, in the State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Adjustable Patterns for Shirt-Waists, of which the following, .taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a full, clear, and exact description.

My invention relates to an adjustable patments which may be used easily with little technical instruction or experience by any one of ordinary intelligence; and it consists of a frame, preferably made of metallic plates adjustable in relation to each other, scales or gagesV inscribed thereon for guiding the adjustment accordingv to measurements taken from the body, and means for connecting the plates and locking them in position after adjustment. The pattern is the same in its essential features for both the front and back of the garlnent. The form here shown is particularly adapted to guide'the drafting or cutting of the front. In a companion application to be iiled I have describedihe rdetail construction of a pattern more particularly adapted for the back. The two patterns for front and back are adapted to be used together.

The principal parts of this adjustable pattern or frame are a straight side plate of two sections longitudinally adjustable upon each other, secured thereto and arranged substantially at right angles, a bottom plate and a bust-plate, each composed of two sections adjustable one on the other, a side-seam plate attached to the outer ends of the bottom plate and bust-plate, also composed of two sections sliding Yon each other, one or more extensions adjustable on the upper en d of the side plate, a neck-plate or shoulder-plate connected to upper end of such extension, and plates laterally adjustable on the neck-plate to bring the curved arm holeplate, shoulder-piece, and curved kneck-piece into proper position. The various plates-andpieces are slotted and secured together 'by studs, permitting adjustment. One stud lfof each adjustable connecti'onfismadein the form of a set-screw with thumb-piece, which'may be loosened and tightened to permit adjustment of the parts and to ix them in the desired position. At

Asuitable points the plates are marked with scales or gages to guide the adjustment. The divisions of these scales correspond to the inches of the particular measure and are marked with numbers indicating the extreme measurements of the part of the body to which the particular scale corresponds.

My invention will be better understood by reference to the accompanying drawings, in y of Fig. I, showing the form of adjustable con-` nection between the various plates and seci tions and the construction of studs and screws.

In the drawings, 1 and 2 indicate, respectively, the upper and lower sections of the side plate, respectively slotted at 3 and 4 and connected by the usual stud a', fitting slot 4, and-the set-screw a,slot 3. Section lis marked -with side-seam scale A, numbered from about 6% to about 10%,'t0 guide the adjustment of the upper end of section 2, which is moved to register with the number corresponding to the measure (in inches) taken from armpit to hip-joint or to lower edge4 of belt. To the lower edge of this sideV plate is secu/red by rivets 5 5 the bottom plate,.composed of the two sections 6 and 7, slotted, respectively, at 8 and 9 and secured together by the usual stud band set-screw b, B being the waistscale, with divisionsnumbered from about 20 to vabout 9536, corresponding to Waistmeasure and guiding adjustment of upper section 7 according to that measure in inches. The laterally-extending bust-plate has its inner section ll fixed to the upper section l of' side plate and its outer section 12 adjustably secu red thereto by usual stud c and set-screw c, 13 and 14 being the slots andO theY bustscale, numbered from about 30 to about 46, corresponding to the measure of the bust in inches and set according to that bustmeasure. The bottom plate by rivet 16 is hinged to the lowercurved section 17 of sideseam plate sliding on the straight upper section 18, having extending end 15 and hinged IOO to outer section 12 of bust-plate by stud q', 19 and 20 being the respective slots, the sections being secured to slide on each other by studs pp'. The point 21 indicates the widest portion of the garment fitting over the hipjoint. The dotted line 22 indicates the narrowest portion of the garment below the bust and the bottom of the belt, Where the garment is drawn in around the waist. Near its upper end the side plate is inscribed with the scale D, numbered from about 30 to about 46, corresponding also to bust-measure, to guide the longitudinal adjustment of the extension-plate 23, slotted at 24. 25 is slot in side plate, and d and d set-screw and stud for connecting extension-plate. This scale D is called the armhole-scale, because it regulates the depth of the armhole.

0n the upper end of the extension-plate is adjustably secured by stud f and set-screwf the upper plate 27, formed with slot 28 and adjusted according to neck-scale F on extension-plate, numbered from about 12 to about 17, corresponding to neck-measure, by which depth of neck is fixed.

To the upper end of the extension-plate is fixed the lateral shoulder-plate or neck-plate, composed of sections 30 and 3l, slotted at 32 and 33 and secured adjustably together by set-screw and stud g andp. Section 30 may be marked with shoulder-scale L, as shown in Fig. II, numbered from about 12 to about .l8 to correspond to width of shoulders;

but I prefer to omit this scale, as in Fig. I, and to adjust the corresponding parts on the rear pattern according to a corresponding rear scale L and then by moving section 31 and thumb-screw g set the inclined front shoulder-piece of equal length to the corresponding rear shoulder-piece. Section 30 has an upper extension 35, marked with lateral neck-scale H, numbered from about 12 to about 17, corresponding to neck-measure, like scale F. 36 is the right-angle neckplate, slotted at 37 and secured to this extension 35 by usual stud h and set-screw h, by which it is adjusted on scale H. The adjustment of this plate 36, like upper plate 27, is regulated by the neck-measure, the form and position of the neck being indicated by neckpiece 40, hinged to right-angle neck-plate by rivet 41 and adjustably connected to upper plate by usual stud engaging in slot 42, so that this neck-piece is brought into proper position by the adjustment of right-angle neck-plate and upper plate just referred to. Outer section 31 is formed with a cross-piece 45, provided with slot 46, to which is adjustably connected by usual stud k and set-screw k the vertical armhole-plate 47, slotted at 48 and marked with height-of-shoulder scale K, numbered from 1 to 2%, indicating slope ot' shoulders, armhole-plate 47 being adj usted according to the slope of the shoulders, so that the proper division registers with upper end of cross-piece. To the upper end of this armhole-plate is hinged by rivet 50 the outer section 51 of shoulder-seam piece, 52 being its inner section, hinged to upper end of neckplate by rivet 41, the two sections being slotted, respectively, at 53 and 54 and connected by studs t' t', so as to move on each other as the parts are adjusted according to the scales H K, and after those scales are set this inclined front shoulder-piece is lengthened or shortened (by moving section 31 of shoulderplate) exactly to agree in length with inclined shoulder-piece on rear pattern, as aforesaid, whereby the shoulder-piece is adjusted to proper position to tix the length and inclination of the shoulder-seam.

The curved armhole-plate 56, slotted at 57, is secured to lower end of cross-piece 45 by set-screw 'n and is marked with curved armhole-scale N, numbered from about f30 to about 46, also corresponding to blistmeasure, according to which it is set, and its lower portion turned to register with upper end 15 of side-seam plate to produce armhole of proper size and shape. The set-screws, as best shown in Fig. IV, are composed lof screw O, having the integral head s, and the thumb-piece r, the shank of the screw being fitted to slide easily in the slot. The st'uds connecting the various plates are formed of the shank y, fitting the slot and 'the enlarged integral heads e z'.

My pattern is so simple that it may be adjusted easily and quickly without calculation by anyone having sufficient intelligence to take the measure of the person, and from this the paper pattern or cloth is cnt or drafted of proper size and proportion to fit any shape. The various adjustments are guided by the eight scales, (omitting L,) set according to the five measures. Side-seam scale A is set according to length from armhole to hip-joint or lower'edge of belt; waist-scale B, according to waist-measure; bust-scale, armhole-scale,- and curved armhole-scale C, D, and N, to bustmeasure, neck-scales F and H, to neck-measure; height-of-shonlder scale K, to shoulder slope. These scales differ in actual length, but are numbered to be set according to 'the measures taken in inches. The scale is preferably on the lower section or plate, the upper being moved lover it. Each half of the front is c'ut separately, the halves overlapping about an inch to provide for the plaits of the front opening. v

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by.Letters Patent, is

1. The combination with the extensible side plate and side-seam pla-te connected together by the `extensible bust and hip plates, of an extension-plate adjustably attached to the side plate, an upper plate adjustably a'ttached to said extension-plate, an extensible shoulder-plate attached to the extensionplate, one of the sections of said shoulderplate being provided with an upwardly-extending adjustable nec'k-plate and the other section with a cross-piece, a curved neck-piece IIB having one end pivoted to the neck-plate andv arranged so as to be adjusted to the body"y measurements taken of a person, and thereby serve as a pattern to lay off the garment.

2. In a shirt-'waist pattern composed of plates adjustable in relation to each other, according to scales marked thereon corresponding to the various measurements of the tigure, the combination of a slotted extensionplate secured to and adjustable on the upper end of a side plate, a slotted upper plate longitudinally adjustable on the extension-plate, a lateral shoulder plate composed of two slotted sections, secured to about the upper end of said extension-plate and extending on one side therefrom substantially parallel to the breast-plate, the outer section being adjustable on the inner section and having an integral slotted cross-piece, a shoulder-plate vertically adjustable on the cross-piece, an extension on the inner section of the lateral shoulder-plate, a right-angle neck-plate laterally adjustable on saidextension, a shoulder-piece composed of two slotted sections sliding on each other, one of said sections being hinged to the upper end of the right-an-v plates adjustable in relation to each other, ac-4 cording to scales marked thereon corresponding to the various measurements of the iigure, the combination of an adjustable side plate, an extension-plate vertically adjustable on the side plate, a lateral shoulder-plate composed of two slotted sections adjustable on each other, one of said sections being secured to the extension-plate, an integral extension on one of said sections, a right-angled crosspiece on the other of said sections, a curved armhole-plate adjustable on said cross-piece, an adjustable bottom plate, an adjustable bust-plate, an adjustable side-seam plate, an upper plate adjustable on said extensionplate, a right-angle neck-plate, a neck-piece, a vertical shoulder-plate, and a slotted shoulder-seam piece.

4. In a shirt-waist pattern composed of plates adjustable in relation to each other, according to scales marked thereon corresponding to the Various measurements of the iigure, the combination of a side plate, a bottom plate, a bust-plate, a side-seam plate, an extension-plate, a lateral shoulder-plate secured to said extension-plate, an integral extension on said lateral shoulder-plate, a slotted upper plate vertically adjustable on said extension-plate, a right-angle neck-plate laterally adjustable on said shoulder-plate, a slotted curved neck-piece hinged to the upper end of the right-angle neck-plate and sliding on the upper end of the upper plate, a shoulder-seam piece, and a curved armhole-plate.

5. In a shirt-waist pattern composed of plates adjustable in relation to each other according to scales marked thereon corresponding to the various measurements of the figure, the combination of a side plate and an extension-plate, of a bottom plate and a bust-plate laterallyadj ustable in relation thereto, of an upper plate vertically adjustable on the eX- tension-plate, a lateral shoulder-plate composed of two slotted sections, one secured to the adjustable extension-plate and laterally adjustable in relation thereto, an integral extension on one of said sections, an integral slotted cross-piece on the other of said sections, a right-angle neck-plate laterally adjustable on said extension, -a curved armhole-plate carried on the lower end of said cross-piece and adjustable thereon, a vertical shoulder-plate also-adjustable on said crosspiece, a slotted two-section shoulder-seam piece pivoted to the upper end of said vertical shoulder-plate and to the upper end of the right-angle neck-plate, and a curved neck'- piece hinged to the upper end of said rightangle neck-plate and sliding on the upper end of said upper plate.

6. In a shirt-waist pattern composed of plates adjustable in relation to each other, according to scales marked thereon corresponding to the various measurements of the figure, the combination with a side plate and plates laterally adjustable thereon to guide the cutting of the lower portion of the pattern, of an extension-plate vertically adjustable ou said side plate, a'lateral shoulder-plate laterally adjustable on the extension-plate, and a single curved armhole plate adjustable on the lateral shoulder-plate to guide the cutting of the armhole, of an upper plate vertically adjustable on the extension-plate, a rightangle neck-plate laterally adjustable on the lateral shoulder-plate, a vertical shoulderplate, a curved neck-piece hinged to the rightangle neck-plate and sliding on the upper plate, and a two-section slotted shoulder-seam piece pivoted to the vertical shoulder-plate and to the right-angle neck-plate to guide the cutting of the neck and the shoulder.

7. In a shirt-waist pattern composed of plates adjustable iu relation to each other, according to scales marked thereon corresponding to the various measurements ofthe figure, the combination with adjustable plates to guide the cutting of the neck, the shoulder and the armhole, of a side plate composed of two slotted sections adjustable on each other,

a bottom plate composed of outer and inner sections, the inner secured to the lower end of one side-plate section and the outer adjustable on the inner section laterally with relation to the side plate, an extension-plate its lower end and hinged to the outer bottom- Id vertically adjustable on the upper section of plate section.

the side plate, a bust-plate composed of two sections, the inner secured to the extensionplate and the outer section adjustable on the inner, and a side-seam plate composed of two slotted sections, the upper hinged to the outer bust-plate section and having an upper extension, and the lower curving' outwardly at In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name.

TERENCE J. GOODWIN. [L. s]

Witnesses M. T.` BROWNELL, C. C. SCHOENECK. 

